![]() The joint will likely crack at some point, even if you mud or caulk. ![]() The path for air is directly perpendicular to the wall and the casing. Your are effectively creating a butt joint with no overlap. Your first approach will compromise both of those features. However casing still are a significant protector, especially against air leaks in cold climates.Ĭasings provide the protection in two ways - they create a convoluted path for any air to get through by overlapping both the door frame (jamb) and the wall material (plaster, wallboard, paneling, etc) and they they fit tightly and are generally sealed to the other two parts with paint and often with caulk. Since the days of rough hewn houses, our water and wind protection has improved overall. The decorative element was an extra benefit (unless you are an extreme modernist/minimalist who wants totally flat featureless transitions). Moldings on wall between vertical boards, called battens served a similar purpose. One of the main purposes of moldings, such as the trim around doors and windows (called casings), is to act as a barrier and seal to wind and water intrusion. Remove the trim very carefully, and reattach it over the new drywall. Then slide drywall into place under the lip and fill in any gaps as above. Leave the window trim in place and dig out the plaster an inch or so deep all the way around making a "lip". Install drywall up to the edge and fill any extra (varying) depth with mud, caulk, or moulding. Take off the lathe/plaster up to the trim. Or, tell me to suck up and simply replace the whole thing. How is this done? I have a few ideas, but I'm hoping you can suggest better ones! Or tell me I'm on the right track. So if I dig the plaster out from behind the trim, I'm left with this varying gap between the trim and the framing.įinally to my question. The lathe and plaster add up to around 1/2", but it's very irregular. However, all of the trim is put over the top of the plaster. I'd paint over the existing leaded paint on the window trim. It was recommended that I use window inserts instead of new construction flanged windows, although I've never done this. I want to keep the existing look of the windows. (OK, these particular windows aren't painted shut.) They're double-hung, single-pane, painted shut, weights removed, with some cracked glass. I'm doing it myself, and it sure is messy :)Īs part of this project I'll replace the old windows. I'm doing the full abatement: respirator, taped plastic barriers, hepa filters, etc. The plaster doesn't have asbestos but the paint does contain lead. This is the first time I've taken out lathe and plaster. (I'm leaving the exterior siding and existing roof) After updating the wiring and insulation I'll put in new drywall. To fix all of these things, I'm demo'ing the upstairs down to studs. It has cracked (original?) plaster over lathe, poor insulation, leaded paint, and knob and tube wiring.
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